Page 32 - 《精细化工》2020年第2期

第 38 卷第 2 期 精 细 化 工 Vol.38, No.2
202 1 年 2 月 FINE CHEMICALS Feb. 2021

综论
防晒剂在乳化体系中结晶规律及其

抑制机制的研究进展

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张倩洁 1,2 ，沈兴亮 1,2 ，畅绍念 ，朱海洋 ，张婉萍 1,2*
（1. 上海应用技术大学 香料香精技术与工程学院，上海 201418；2. 香料香精及化妆品教育部工程研究
中心，上海 201418；3. 广东三好科技有限公司，广东 清远 511853；4. 上海儒溪生物科技有限公司，
上海 201100）

摘要：随着经济水平的发展和人民生活质量的提高，防晒产品已经成为人们日常生活中不可或缺的部分，而防
晒剂结晶析出作为防晒产品的主要失稳现象越来越引起人们的重视。目前，国内对于乳液体系中防晒剂结晶现
象的研究主要集中在如何开发新型包覆载体技术或优化配方体系以避免结晶的出现，而对防晒剂在乳液体系中
结晶机制的研究报道十分匮乏。该文概述了防晒剂的种类和作用机理，并从晶体学的角度重点剖析了防晒剂在
乳化体系中的结晶过程和抑制机制，展望了防晒产品的开发和研究的趋势，利用防晒剂结晶的抑制机制来提高
防晒产品稳定性和功效性具有重要的科学意义。
关键词：防晒产品；防晒剂；乳化体系；结晶过程；结晶抑制
中图分类号：O781 文献标识码：A 文章编号：1003-5214 (2021) 02-0234-07

Research progress of the crystallization rule and inhibition
mechanism of sun-screening agent in emulsion

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1,2
1,2
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ZHANG Qianjie , SHEN Xingliang , CHANG Shaonian , ZHU Haiyang , ZHANG Wanping 1,2*
（1. College of Perfume and Aroma Technology, Shanghai Institute of Technology, Shanghai 201418, China; 2. Engineering
Research Center of Perfume & Aroma and Cosmetics, Ministry of Education, Shanghai 201418, China; 3. Guangdong
3INS Technology Co., Ltd., Qingyuan 511853, Guangdong, China; 4. Shanghai Ruxi Bio-Tech Co., Ltd., Shanghai 201100, China）
Abstract: With the development of economic level and the improvement of people's life quality, sunscreen
products have become an indispensable part of people's daily life. And the crystallization of sunscreen
products as the main phenomenon of instability has attracted great attention. At present, domestic
researches on the crystallization of sun-screening agent in emulsion are mainly focus on how to develop
new coating carrier technology or optimize the formulation system to avoid the occurrence of crystallization,
while studies on the crystallization mechanism of sun-screening agent in emulsion are scarce. The
crystallization process and inhibition mechanism of sun-screening agent in emulsion are firstly summarized.
The crystallization process and inhibition mechanism of sun-screening agent in the emulsion system are
analyzed from the perspective of crystallography. The development and research trend of sunscreen
products are prospected. It is of great scientific significance to improve the stability and efficacy of
sunscreen products by using the inhibition mechanism of sunscreen crystallization.
Key words: sunscreen products; sun-screening agent; emulsion; crystallization process; inhibition of
crystallization

适当照射太阳光可以预防维生素 D 的缺乏，但 可能会对皮肤、眼睛和免疫系统造成急性和慢性伤
是长期暴露于太阳紫外线辐射（UVR，280~400 nm） 害。皮肤晒伤（红斑）是过度紫外线照射的急性效应，

收稿日期：2020-07-15; 定用日期：2020-09-11; DOI: 10.13550/j.jxhg.20200645
作者简介：张倩洁（1987—），女，讲师，博士，E-mail：zhangqj_sit@126.com。联系人：张婉萍（1970—），博士，教授， E-mail：
zhangwanp@126.com。