Page 202 - 《精细化工》2020年第2期

第 38 卷第 2 期 精 细 化 工 Vol.38, No.2
202 1 年 2 月 FINE CHEMICALS Feb. 2021

纺织染整助剂
多元羧酸与指甲醌染料交联染棉的结构及性能

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张 莉，李 红 ，蔡晓宇，高 源，闫 俊
（大连工业大学 纺织与材料工程学院，辽宁 大连 116034）

摘要：为了提高天然染料对棉纤维的染色固色性能，以聚马来酸（PMA）和柠檬酸（CA）为交联剂应用于天然
染料指甲醌对棉织物的交联染色。采用 FTIR、XRD 和 SEM 分析了染色前后棉织物的表面形态及结构，探讨了
酯交联对棉织物性能的影响以及多元羧酸复配交联染色机理。结果表明，染色前后棉织物表面差别不大，各纤
维间不粘连；直接染色后的棉纤维表面变化不明显，仅有少量染料附着，而交联染色后的棉纤维表面负载较多
的染料导致其粗糙度增加，酯化反应主要发生在纤维的无定形区。与直接染色棉织物相比，交联染色棉织物的
染色深度（K/S）和上染率分别提高了 88%和 165%；染品的绿光、黄光增加，颜色饱和度提高；摩擦色牢度提
高了 1~2 级；耐洗色牢度提高了 1~2 级；交联染色后棉织物的折皱回复角（WRA）提高了约 60%，紫外线防护
系数（UPF）达到了 50+，具有优异的抗紫外性能。
关键词：柠檬酸；聚马来酸；天然染料指甲醌；棉织物；交联染色；纺织染整
中图分类号：TS193 文献标识码：A 文章编号：1003-5214 (2021) 02-0404-07

Structure and properties of crosslinking-dyed cotton with
polycarboxylic acid and lawsone dye

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ZHANG Li, LI Hong , CAI Xiaoyu, GAO Yuan, YAN Jun
（College of Textile & Material Engineering, Dalian Polytechnic University, Dalian 116034, Liaoning, China）

Abstract: In order to improve the dyeing and fixing properties of natural dye on cotton fibers, the mixture
of polymaleic acid (PMA) and citric acid (CA) was used as crosslinking agent for crosslinking dyeing on
cotton with natural dye lawsone. The structure and surface morphology of cotton fabrics before and after
dyeing were characterized by FTIR、SEM and XRD. The effect of ester crosslinking on the properties of
cotton fabric and the crosslinking dyeing mechanism with polycarboxylic acid compound were discussed.
The results showed that there was not much difference on the surface of the cotton fabric before and after
dyeing, and no adhesion between the fibers. After direct dyeing, the surface of cotton fiber did not change
significantly, and attached only a small amount of dyes. While after crosslinking dyeing, more dyes were
loaded on the surface of cotton fiber, resulting in the roughness increasingly. Moreover, esterification
mainly occurred in the amorphous region of the fiber. Compared with those of direct-dyed cotton fabric, the
dyeing depth (K/S) and the dyeing rate of crosslinking-dyed cotton fabric were increased by 88% and 165%,
respectively. The green light, yellow light and color saturation of the dyed product increased. The colour
fastness to rubbing increased by about 1~2 levels, and the colour fastness to washing increased by about
1~2 levels. The wrinkle recovery angle (WRA) of crosslinking-dyed cotton fabric was enhanced by about
60% and had a UPF value of 50+, and exhibited excellent UV resistance.
Key words: citric acid; polymaleic acid; natural dye lawsone; cotton fabrics; crosslinking dyeing; dyeing
and finishing

[1]
天然染料具有良好的生态相容性、低毒性，且 景 。天然染料指甲醌属于萘醌类染料，主要从指
来源广泛，在纺织品生态染整中有着良好的应用前 甲草的根、茎、叶中提取，2-羟基-1,4-萘醌是它的

收稿日期：2020-07-17; 定用日期：2020-09-11; DOI: 10.13550/j.jxhg.20200653
基金项目：辽宁省教育厅科学研究经费项目（No. J2019019）
作者简介：张 莉（1993—），女，硕士生，E-mail：956961070@qq.com。联系人：李 红（1971—），女，副教授，E-mail：lihong@
dlpu.edu.cn。