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第 36 卷第 7 期                             精   细   化   工                                  Vol.36, No.7
             201 9 年 7 月                             FINE CHEMICALS                                 July    2019


              医药与日化原料
                          高纯竹叶碳苷黄酮纳米材料的护肤功效



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                       张宇靖 ,李云虹 ,姜春鹏 ,杨舒琪 ,韩建欣 ,张   英
                 (1.  浙江大学  生物系统工程与食品科学学院,浙江省农产品加工技术研究重点实验室,浙江省食品加工
                 技术与装备工程研究中心,浙江  杭州    310058;2.  苏州绿叶日用品有限公司上海张江博士后工作站,上
                 海    201203)
                 摘要:在采用 B16 黑素瘤细胞体外评价高纯竹叶碳苷黄酮复合纳米材料( H -BLFnp)美白作用的基础上,
                 基于临床医学理论进行人体实验,应用系列皮肤测试仪器,对受试者使用试样前后的皮肤含水量、水分散
                 失量、光泽度、明亮度、黑色素含量、皮肤弹性等生理指标进行了测定,考察 H -BLFnp 在保湿、美白、延
                 缓衰老方面的功效。结果显示,以 β-熊果苷为阳性对照, H -BLFnp 对 B16 细胞增殖、胞内酪氨酸酶活性和
                 黑色素合成均有显著的抑制作用(p<0.05),当 H -BLFnp 质量浓度为 100 mg/L 时,其抑制率分别达到 45.14%、
                 72.55%和 54.01%,即其可通过降低酪氨酸酶活性、抑制黑素细胞增殖和黑色素生成达到美白功效;人体实
                 验结果显示: H -BLFnp 能显著提高皮肤的水分含量、皮肤弹性、明亮度和光泽度,降低皮肤黑色素含量和
                 经皮水分散失。
                 关键词:高纯竹叶碳苷黄酮;纳米材料;护肤功能因子;生物学功效;水感型化妆品;日化原料
                 中图分类号:TQ658      文献标识码:A      文章编号:1003-5214 (2019) 07-1401-07



                 Assessment on Skin Care Effect of the Nanomaterial Taking High Purity
                        C-glycoside Flavonoids of Bamboo Leaf as Leading Material


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                              ZHANG Yu-jing , LI Yun-hong , JIANG Chun-peng , YANG Shu-qi ,
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                                               HAN Jian-xin , ZHANG Ying
                 (1. Zhejiang Key Laboratory for Agro-Food Processing, Zhejiang R&D Center for Food Technology and Equipment,
                 College of Biosystems Engineering and  Food Science, Zhejiang University, Hangzhou  310058,  Zhejiang, China;
                 2. Suzhou Green Leaf Wholelife Health Technology Co., Ltd. Shanghai Zhangjiang Postdoctoral Workstation, Shanghai
                 201203, China)
                 Abstract: Based on the whitening effect of a novel composite nanomaterial taking high purity C-glycoside
                 flavonoids of bamboo leaf as leading material ( H-BLFnp) evaluated by B16 melanoma cells in vitro, its skin
                 care function was further evaluated on the human body. The indexes of biological efficacy including skin
                 moisture  content,  percutaneous  moisture  loss,  skin  gloss,  brightness,  melanin  content  and  skin  elasticity
                 were tested before and after subjects using the samples to explore the biological efficacy of  H-BLFnp on the
                 moisturizing,  whitening,  anti-aging.  The  results  showed  that  H-BLFnp  significantly  inhibited  B16  cell
                 proliferation, tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis taking β-arbutin as a positive control (p<0.05), the
                 corresponding inhibition rates achieved 45.14%, 72.55% and 54.01% respectively when the concentration
                 of  H-BLFnp  was  at  100  mg/L.  H-BLFnp  may  exert  whitening  effect  through  inhibiting  melanocyte
                 proliferation, tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis. The clinic test revealed that  H-BLFnp significantly
                 increased skin moisture content, skin elasticity, brightness and gloss, and reduced skin melanin content and
                 percutaneous moisture loss.
                 Key words: high purity C-glycoside flavonoids of bamboo leaf; nanomaterial; cosmeceutical; biological


                 收稿日期:2018-12-20;  定用日期:2019-02-14; DOI: 10.13550/j.jxhg.20180931
                 基金项目:国家重点基础研究发展规划(973 计划)(2012CB720806)
                 作者简介:张宇靖(1993—),女,硕士生。联系人:张   英(1961—),女,教授,博士生导师,电话:0571-88982164,E-mail:
                 yzhang@zju.edu.cn。
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