Page 153 - 《精细化工》2023年第5期

第 40 卷第 5 期 精 细 化 工 Vol.40, No.5
20 23 年 5 月 FINE CHEMICALS May 2023

医药与日化原料
黄花菜发酵液的化妆品功效评价

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闫雅倩 ，张玉芝 ，付 豪 ，张雨萱 ，王冬冬 ，
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杨 丽 ，李 萌 ，王昌涛
（1. 北京工商大学 化学与材料工程学院 北京市植物资源研究开发重点实验室，北京 100048；2. 北京
中德联合化妆品研究所有限公司，北京 100048）
摘要：使用植物乳杆菌和酿酒酵母菌发酵制得了两种黄花菜发酵液，考察了样品对 HaCaT 细胞存活率的影响，
分析了其抗炎性功效、抗氧化功效、美白功效、安全性功效。结果表明，与水提液（空白对照）相比，两种发
酵液的抗氧化能力更强。在细胞水平上，两种黄花菜发酵液均表现出对 UVB 诱导损伤细胞的修复作用，相对于
经过 UVB 照射后的细胞模型组，细胞Ⅰ型胶原蛋白（COL-Ⅰ）、过氧化氢酶（CAT）活力均提高。两种黄花菜
发酵液的酪氨酸酶活性抑制率远高于水提液，表现出良好的美白效果。通过 HaCaT 细胞中炎性因子 IL-6、TNF-α
和 COX-2 表达量可以看出，样品组中炎性因子的表达量显著低于模型组，说明黄花菜发酵液的抗炎性能力大于
水提液。通过鸡胚绒毛尿囊膜实验（HET-CAM）可以得出，样品作用其前后均无出血现象，表明黄花菜发酵液
无刺激性。
关键词：黄花菜；发酵；抗炎性；美白性；医药与日化原料
中图分类号：TQ630；TQ658 文献标识码：A 文章编号：1003-5214 (2023) 05-1073-09

Cosmetic efficacy evaluation of Hemerocallis citrina Baroni fermentation broth

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YAN Yaqian , ZHANG Yuzhi , FU Hao , ZHANG Yuxuan , WANG Dongdong ,
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YANG Li , LI Meng , WANG Changtao
（1. Beijing Key Laboratory of Plant Resources Research and Development, College of Chemistry and Materials
Engineering, Beijing Technology and Business University, Beijing 100048, China; 2. Beijing Sino-German Joint
Cosmetic Research Institute Co. Ltd., Beijing 100048, China）
Abstract: Two kinds of daylily broth fermented by Lactobacillus plantarum and Saccharomyces cerevisiae,
respectively, were synthesized, and their influence on the survival rate of HaCaT cells as well as their
anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, whitening and safety effects were investigated and analyzed. The results
showed that compared with the water extract (blank control), the two kinds of daylily fermentation broth
exhibited stronger antioxidant capacity. Both broth samples displayed repair effect on UVB-induced
damage at cellular level, and the activities of collagen-Ⅰ(COL-Ⅰ) and catalase (CAT) were elevated in
comparison to those of the cell model group after UVB irradiation. Moreover, both broth samples showed
much higher tyrosinase activity inhibition rate than the control water extract, showing good whitening effect.
Meanwhile, HaCaT cells treated with both broth samples displayed much lower expression of inflammatory
factors IL-6, TNF-α and COX-2 compared with those treated with water extract, indicating higher
anti-inflammatory capacity of daylily fermentation broth. Results from chick chorioallantoic membrane test
demonstrated that there was no bleeding occurred before and after treatment with the samples, suggesting
no irritation from the fermented broth.
Key words: Hemerocallis citrina Baroni; fermentation; anti-inflammatory; whitening; drug and cosmetic
materials

收稿日期：2022-07-25; 定用日期：2022-11-14; DOI: 10.13550/j.jxhg.20220713
作者简介：闫雅倩（2000—），女，硕士生，E-mail：2217081829@qq.com。联系人：杨 丽（1988—），女，助理研究员，E-mail：
yang.li@caiq-schrader.com.cn；李 萌（1981—），女，副教授，E-mail：limeng@btbu.edu.cn。